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DIY | DIY
decorating | Exterior painting
Exterior
painting
The outside appearance of your house
can be improved dramatically with a good application of paint, but
before painting it is best to assess if replacement is more economically
viable than painting!
Plastic rainwater down pipes for instance are difficult to paint as
you need to prepare the surface, undercoat then apply the top coat
of paint. This is very time consuming and replacing a down pipe is
often far easier, cheaper and looks far better, some manufacturers
make them in the following colours - Black, Brown and Grey.
The picture below was from the last house that I renovated, you can
see that the vent on the soil pipe reaches above the level of the
roof which is a three storey house, this would make painting it very
difficult. I opted for replacing the vent section of the stack with
an air admittance valve and then painted the other section to the
floor.
Some wood work can be covered with PVC profiling, this should be done
where possible as it removes the need for periodic painting, PVC comes
in several colours now, mainly white but you can normally get Mahogany
or Oak, new colours are being produced all the time so check with
your local Distributor.
On the front of this house I did a combination of painting and PVC
cladding, in most cases it is far easier and quicker to clad with
PVC rather than paint!
Here you can see that the wood work has not been painted for some
considerable time, If the wood is rotten it is best to replace it
but if it is sound you can merely clad over it.
The apex was removed as it was rotten and replaced with PVC, Taurus
skirting board made from PVC was used for effect on the front. There
were gaps where the windows met the walls of the property so PVC cloaking
profile was cut to fit and held in place with silicone.
Before doing any outside work it is always a good idea to check the
weather forecast and plan the work for a suitable day. Never paint
wood when wet as it will soon blister and look terrible. Before working
at heights please read the section on ladder safety.
Brick walls do not normally need painting, they look far better if
they are cleaned and treated with a good quality waterproofing solution.
The wall can normally be cleaned by brushing with a stiff brush, be
sure to wear goggles and a dust mask as particles will fly everywhere.
If it is a small wall it would be far easier to use a pressure washer
and some specialist brick cleaning/patio cleaning solution. DO NOT
USE A PRESSURE WASHER ON A LADDER! If any pointing becomes loose or
drops out see re-pointing. Remove any mould with a scraper and treat
with a fungicide, then rinse it off the next day.
If the wall has been rendered and cracks have appeared they will need
filling before painting, paint some PVA bonding into the cracks as
this will help the filler to stick.
If the cracks are fine I recommend using a special exterior filler
but if they are more than say 2mm mortar would probably be best. If
the wall is chalky or powdery it will need sealing first with a stabilising
solution.
Ever heard the expression " you get what you pay for"?
Although there are many different Paint manufacturers, some are better
than others, the only time I ever visit the Large do it yourself stores
is to purchase paint, not because they are cheap but because they
stock the best brands. The difference between a good paint and not
so good paint is evident when you come to use it. Some of the best
manufacturers make One coat emulsion and surprisingly it does cover
most colours in one coat, the cheaper versions which claim to be one
coat generally need 2 or 3 coats- false economy I believe.
Before painting the masonry it is best to prepare any woodwork such
as windows or doors first. Most wood can be painted over by slightly
sanding it with some sand paper and then giving it a wipe with a rag
with a little white spirit on it. If the existing paint has bubbled
it will need removing, this is best done with a electric hot hair
gun and a scraper, these guns strip paint for fun. KEEP IT WELL AWAY
FROM THE GLASS AS THERMAL SHOCK CAN BREAK THE GLASS! If any of the
wood is rotten but not enough of it to warrant replacing the whole
window it is best to remove all of the rotten wood and purchase a
wood repair kit
Replace any missing putty which is sealing the window or if large
gaps between the window and walls appear you can cover these with
PVC cloaking profile by sticking them in place with silicone.
Know your limitations, if you are a sloppy painter and get it all
over yourself and splatter everything make sure you mask an items
that don't need painting and place a dust sheet on the ground incase
of any drops. If you are capable and don't splat everything in sight
you don't need to mask surrounding areas. I suggest either a 4 inch
or 6 inch masonry brush.
If you are applying rough masonry paint then the special brush is
advised. It is easiest to start painting at the top of a wall and
work your way down wards. Apply a good even coat and ensure not to
overload the brush, brush the paint out in all directions to ensure
you don't get lines in the paint. A paint kettle is advised as it
is a lot easier to hold especially as masonry paint normally comes
in 5 litre tins!
After painting the walls you can paint the woodwork, ensure the wood
is dry before painting. The amount of time you spend preparing the
woodwork the better the final finish will be, It is best to give 2
coats of undercoat and a coat of gloss. One coat gloss and undercoat
should be avoided as the results are not satisfactory for outside!
If you are a sloppy painter it is a good idea to mask around the windows,
or use a paint guard. Personally I prefer to take my time and not
use any such implements as they are too time consuming, It is far
easier to take your time and practice cutting in by holding the brush
at the appropriate angle.
Courtesy of Ultimatehandyman.co.uk
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